Crampons Advisable: Getting to Exmouth Market
Exmouth Market, where Moro has been located for almost 30 years, should win prizes for being one of the most evil places to get to in London. I call this a “Farringdon” review as that is the closest station, but it is an annoying 10 minute walk uphill in what is the least well served part of Central London for public transport. Mount Pleasant is a better description in terms of geography, if wholly inaccurate in terms of ambiance.
I do have a soft spot for this part of London, as my Dad owned a butchers in Exmouth Market, and Mrs Nigel and I had our very first “date” (It is that long ago that the word had not entered the British English language at that point) just round the corner in The Eagle, the first real gastropub. It was a long slow uphill (in some cases literally) struggle for Exmouth Market to come upmarket over the years, but it is now a lively, trendy, pedestrianised mecca for foodies from across London. And you can tell the demographic by the sheer concentration of abandoned Lime bikes…
A Butcher’s Son Returns
We have been to Moro quite a few times, sometimes sitting outside with a bottle of wine and some excellent Tapas, and sometimes inside enjoying the a la carte. But this was the first time we have tried the set Sunday lunch, and there is always a worry that the wheels are going to come off a bit in any restaurant on Mother’s Day.
Unfortunately, no matter how hard I try, I cannot find a single fault in the whole experience. Even the cost, which looks slightly toppy, reflected both the excellent food, but also the fact that all of the water (still and sparkling) and most excellent bread were included in the £2 cover charge. I have defaulted to ordering tap water wherever I go now, given the vast cost of a bottle of fizzy water, so we were delighted and a little stunned to be told it was all inclusive. Also, all the sides were in the price, which is another huge bugbear of mine
The Set-Up: Shared Starters, Your Own Main
Menu wise, it was super simple. Everyone shares the starters, and then you order your own main. Several people in my family are notoriously not keen on sharing, so having their own main course was suitably mollifying. Having a vegetarian in our party (I like to do this to throw kitchens off) proved to be no issue at all, with some adjustments made to the sharing plates, and a rather excellent mezze for the main.The Set-Up: Shared Starters, Your Own Main
If I seem to be a photo down on the starters, it is because the asparagus is with the mushrooms. I can recommend everything. If I had to pick a favourite, it would be the labneh, but it was all faultless.
Lamb, Suckling Pig, and Irritatingly Brilliant Beef
It turns out that roasts don’t always photograph well, but do not be put off by my amateurish efforts. The beef was well received (with 3 takers), but I am very pleased I ordered the lamb, which was matched with some really excellent hot mint sauce. I also shared some of the suckling pig with Mrs Nigel, and it was tender and very flavoursome. Just irritatingly brilliant.
The Pudding I Didn’t Want (But Absolutely Needed)
Now, I was thinking that a tenner for a pudding was a little much, and I did demur as I usually do, but the rest of the party had no such qualms, and having had a few nibbles I have to agree. The raisin ice cream with sherry was a very welcome update to Rum ‘n’ Raisin ice cream, and my sister remarked that the yogurt cake tasted exactly like a lovely lemon confection my mother used to make, which I guarantee is as high a praise as can be heaped on any item of food. And she was right: It transported me right back to my childhood (as did sitting next to my mother, but that is a whole other story…). And my parents went completely quiet for the time it took them to eat their chocolate cake, which is noteworthy for its rarity, and a definite nod towards the quality of the pud.
Drinks-wise, it was a pretty abstemious affair, but we went a little off piste for a change. Mrs Nigel had a spritz cocktail thing, which she really liked. Young Master J had a Fino sherry, which made him look awfully sophisticated, and I had a red Vermout, which I generally love (had a great one at La Casa del Perro in Malaga), but in this case just liked. Should have stuck to a Negroni
Daffodils and Departures
At the end of the meal, the manager came round with bunches of daffodils for the mothers at the table, which was a really nice touch.
My biggest surprise was how packed it was mid-afternoon. We had a 1 pm table (why I didn’t tell my parents 12.30 I will never know, as they are rarely, if ever, on time, but the Elizabeth Line’s Mother’s Day closure banjaxed them even more than usual, but when we left at 3.30, the place was packed still (and which may explain how they have lasted 30 years)
The Verdict: Don’t Go to Moro. Go Today.
So if you want an excellent place for lunch or dinner, or just a light mid-week tapas, there are few places in London I would recommend more. Just remember to bring crampons.
Conclusion
Overall rating: 5/5
- Food: 5/5
- Service: 5/5
- Ambiance: 5/5
- Location: 4/5
- Drinks: 4.5/5
- Value for money: 5/5
- Cost Range: £££
- Would we go back? Honestly, I wish I had never left
Moro: https://moro.co.uk/
