5 / 5
Ancona apparently means “Elbow”. But had I listened to certain unnamed members of my family, I would have thought it referred to a different, entirely more scatological, part of the body.
It is not one of the best-known Italian cities, being about as high on the tourist trail as Portsmouth would be here: A big ferry port that you spend more time getting through, than staying in. However, this is the area in which #1 son is getting married, so we were there for a few days trying out hotels and wedding venue food (all of which were superb).
The Italian Portsmouth (But Better)
Unlike Portsmouth, it is actually worth lingering in for a day or two. While the main part of the town is pretty typical of many Italian provincial towns, it has a number of highlights, such as the view from the Duomo, and a large number of Roman remains, including a Trajan arch (one of a number of large arches, in fact), as well as the must-see leper colony (now leper-free, but with a great wine bar run by the people whose vineyard will be hosting the nuptials).
We had a night by ourselves, and you get an idea of how provincial things are in that you really can’t book anything online, unlike bigger cities such as Bologna (we had an amazing meal there, of which more, possibly, next week…). So very kindly, son’s affianced rang around a few places to find us somewhere nice to eat, not an easy feat as it was a) a Saturday and b) Liberation Day, one of the big holidays of the year. However, she got us in at the very English time of 8pm, and we proceeded down through the thronged streets as the sun went down. Absolutely stunning.
The Restaurant That Looked Closed
And then we saw the restaurant, which at first we thought had been shut for several years. Honestly, had it not been booked for us, we would have walked/run past. The impression was not helped when we walked in, and were the only patrons, whereas the restaurants in the nearby squares were packed… I should point out that if you were lured into this article by the amazing “Pizza” sign that is this blog’s featured image, it’s from a completely different place (which smelled delicious!).
But we are polite folk, so we sat down at our allocated table in the corner and went through the menu. Which was fish, fish, fish. Being English, the Italian idea of course after course after course is hard to bear after a few days, so we settled on some antipasti, and some secondi, skipping the primi (and the dolci!). Our attempts to order wine were farcical, as the wine list was 30 indistinguishable Verdicchios, so we had to ask what they recommended, but what we should have done is have the house wine, like everyone else did.
Oh yes, everyone else… Not long after we sat down, the floodgates opened, and seemingly everyone in Ancona came in for dinner. And promptly had massive plates of fried fish, and what looked like a paella dish of pasta and seafood. All looked amazing.
Delicate flowers that we are, we went lighter (or tried to), with the mixed seafood antipasti, and a plate of the most delicious citrus infused anchovies I have ever had, followed by tuna (cooked beautifully with a sesame crust) and a grilled fish platter. All of it was incredible.
At the end, being English, we waited patiently for the bill. Don’t. Just stand up and go to the bar.
For 95 Euros, we had one of the best meals of the holiday (and that is a high barrier), so it goes to show you can’t judge a book by its cover/restaurant by its 1960s signage.
The Verdict: Hidden Gem, Please Don’t Tell Anyone
I am under strict instructions not to tell anyone about what a great tourist destination Ancona is, in case the prices go up and it is full of drunken Brits (apart from 4 days in September this year…). But it is such a hidden gem, with a great historical centre (rebuilt after the Yanks remodelled it in the war), some amazing beaches and good value hotels and food, that I can’t help myself. I will be back: Hopefully you will too…
Conclusion
Overall Rating: 5/5
- Food: 5/5
- Drinks: 4/5
- Service: 4/5
- Ambience: 3.5/5
- Value for Money: 6/5
- Price: £
- Would we go back? So many other places to try, but yes!
Osteria del Pozzo: https://www.facebook.com/osteriadelpozzoancona
