I should not be writing this review. It is tough enough to get a decent table at this pub, without spreading the word further. However, it has be in my top three favourite food pubs in the country, and so it would be remiss of me to not mention it here on Nigel Noshes.

It sits in a perfect spot on the edge of Wimbledon Common. Perfect only because it is exactly 2/3 of the way from my house to Putney via a somewhat circuitous route, which makes it an excellent place to stop for lunch if you are on a long walk.

The pub itself is very attractive, but for me the most attractive feature is its excellent outdoor seating. There is a lot of it (and it extends over the road in the summer) and about half of it is semi-enclosed with heaters. Excellent for a Friday lunch at the end of November! Ok, we were the only people out there, apart from the smokers, whereas the pub inside was pretty full, but the staff had no qualms at all about serving us al fresco (at least not to our faces…)

Being a Youngs pub, you can order to the table via the app with no hassle, which is a real godsend on the days when the pub is busy. Service is quick and always friendly.

I am hesitant in saying this, and I accept no liability if you don’t like it, but I have never had a bad meal here. Usually, we stick to the starters and sharing plates, throwing in the odd main course salad when it looks good.

One great thing about this pub in particular is that they do vary their menu by season, so it’s not just fish and chips and steak pie whenever you go.

One constant, there is always Hummus, and thank goodness. Yesterday we had a hearty Orange-Coloured Hummus with Red Pepper, but last time (in late summer), it was Lemon and Garlic. They have also changed their flatbreads, and I think they work better than the old ones.

We always like a good charcuterie, and while this was a bit above the “We just went to Tesco” version you get in a lot of places, it was not that inspiring. Ok, you do not expect to get something as divine as the offering in Riva in Barnes (I am hoarding the entertainment budget so I can bring that to you soon), but apart from the jar’s worth of cornichons, it was only just a little above average.

“But oh that magic feeling”… Paul McCartney could have been writing about a trip to Wimbledon for a cheeky winter warmer rather than his dispute with manager Allen Klein: The absolute highpoint of this mean was the Grilled Heritage Squash, which was absolutely, unexpectedly, superb.

The squash was very well roasted and actually tasted of something, so it showed that thought had gone into the ingredients and their cooking. But this dish proved that everything tastes better with whipped feta. This is something that is making its way onto a lot of menus at the moment (a bit like the great beetroot invasion of the late 2010s), but for good reason: It really does lift the meal and gives a cold, creamy counterpoint to the warm squash and courgette.

So, I can only urge you please do not visit this pub, particularly in the summer when the sun is shining. The Fox and Grapes is just round the corner and that looks nice (Never been, due to my Hand in Hand addiction), or you could pop into the Hotel du Vin which is even nearer, if my comments on HdV food haven’t put you off already.

But if you do visit, come for the food, not just the beer. Pub food is very variable, but Youngs seem to have cracked it, and it would be awful if they went back to the pre-prepared and frozen fare that you so often see, if people don’t eat the delicious food their kitchens seem capable of preparing.

Rating: 5/5

Hand in Hand: https://www.thehandinhandwimbledon.co.uk/