How often do you go to a restaurant and only realise afterwards that it is a chain?  Independent restaurants have a completely different vibe, up to and including staff who actually give a stuff (although you might not think that if you are a regular reader of this blog).  I have been going to what I thought was the one and only Caravan in King’s Cross for years, and greatly enjoying the food (although only outside – It’s a vast, noisy shed with poorly placed toilets inside). 

A Chain Restaurant? News to Me

So I was a bit stunned a few weeks ago when Mrs Nigel suggested we go to Caravan in Exmouth Market for dinner during our overnight Easter sojourn (we’ll see now whether she actually reads any of these reviews, as she clearly thought I knew that like a Lake District road in Summer, the world is chock a block with Caravans…)

I’ve really only got one criticism of this visit, and that is that the restaurant was too quiet.  It was Saturday night, and we had just come from over the road at The Eagle, Britain’s original gastropub, and that was heaving.  In fact, the whole of Exmouth Market was heaving with what seemed like every hen do in Britain, but Caravan, with a prime position right on the corner at the entrance to the market, was virtually empty.

There are a lot of outside tables, which on a damp evening make the place look a bit abandoned, but it does seem odd that while everywhere else was full, Caravan was pretty deserted.  I always feel a bit stupid walking into places and saying “We’re booked a table for 2” when you survey the sea of empty seats.  Caravan is unusual these days in not taking a deposit for tables when booking, so perhaps they get a lot of no-shows? 

Anyhow, it’s a really nicely decorated interior, and we managed to get a quiet table a deux (there were only two other couples in the place, so it was not that hard).  One word of warning: You are encouraged to massively over order.  I can’t quite remember what we were told, now, but I think Henry VIII would have turned green had it all turned up.

How to Order at Caravan (and How Not To)

I am going to give the same advice here that I give in every “Small Plates” place in the country:  Avoid the mains unless there is something you desperately want to try.  The portions in Caravan are pretty generous, and if you want to order some more (as we did, more for something to do), it comes quickly.

I have some firm Caravan favourites and was not disappointed to find them still on the menu.  I do like a restaurant that keeps its best dishes long term and spices a few new ones in from time to time, rather than decimating it every season.

The labneh is just outstanding, and an absolute must-order.  It was a little spicier than the last time we had it but still excellent.  I totally love the smashed cucumber and cannot recommend it enough.  It’s hard to reach for superlatives about edamame beans, but it was a generous portion and makes a great sharing plate.

The cauliflower is great for the money and the same “hilariously massive” size it comes at Delamina East.  Also, as Mrs Nigel is not keen (several generations of British schoolchildren can’t look at a cauliflower after what the dinner ladies used to do to it) it makes for a very generous stomach filler for me.  To even things out, we ordered the lamb koftas just before the kitchen closed to satiate Mrs Nigel.  Probably the least good thing we ordered, but that is very relative to a very high standard.

The Negroni Test

Drinks are good and well-priced.  I had an excellent negroni, and I am beginning to think that this is the one true bellwether of a decent restaurant.  Can’t mix together gin, vermouth and Campari?  Cancel my table.

And the service? Genuinely excellent and extremely friendly without being intrusive.   I actually had to tip extra because the meal itself was so reasonably priced that I didn’t feel the service charge really covered it.

There was a moment of wonderment at the end, when it became clear I could pay using a QR code.  If I were world president, apart from insisting that every restaurant serve Roquefort as a pudding, I would make QR codes obligatory.  It is so much easier for me as the punter, and for the harassed staff.  I can pay when I want to and also add the service I want to, without anyone feeling rushed or embarrassed.  Too many bad Covid-era innovations have stayed (endless Teams meetings and people bringing dogs to dinner being the two worst), but I had hoped that streamlining the paying experience would remain, so well done to the Caravan Team.

The Verdict: Great Food, Great Value, Where Is Everyone?

When I was researching this article, I was quite staggered to find there are almost as many Caravan restaurants in the UK as there are Tesco Express (perhaps a slight exaggeration), so a big hats off, as it is really hard to maintain the quality of an independent restaurant across such a large estate.  I think only Lamucca in Madrid can boast the same, and I love their food.

Do yourself a favour, get over the slightly garish branding and get to Caravan.  Great food, great service and if you choose well, great value. 

Conclusion

Overall Rating: 5/5

• Food: 5/5
• Drinks: 5/5
• Service: 5/5
• Ambiance: 3/5
• Value for Money: 5/5
• Cost: ££
• Would we go back?  If it’s not closed down, yes.

Caravan, Exmouth Market: https://caravanandco.com/pages/exmouth-market